Tanzania food guide

August 15, 2023 | 5 minutes read

Note: this article was AI-generated, then checked and edited against the sources listed at the end.

Ugali and everyday inland food

Ugali

Ugali is a stiff maize-flour porridge served with beans, greens or meat sauce. It tastes of almost nothing on its own; the sauce is the point. Tear off a piece with your hand, make a dent with your thumb and use it to scoop up the rest.

Inland, around Arusha, Moshi, Dodoma and Mwanza, you will eat more maize, beans, plantains, meat and greens. On the coast and Zanzibar, expect more rice, coconut, spices and seafood.

Maharage are beans in sauce, while sukuma wiki are cooked greens, usually collards or kale. The name means “push the week” because they are cheap enough to stretch the budget until payday. Makande is maize and beans cooked together: basic, heavy and filling.

Chipsi mayai is exactly what it sounds like: chips cooked into an omelette. It is heavy, cheap and usually served with tomato or chilli sauce.

Near Kilimanjaro, try ndizi nyama, a meat stew made with green cooking bananas. They are starchy, not sweet, and work more like potatoes.

Arusha and Moshi

Nyama choma is grilled meat, often ordered by piece or weight. Ask how the price works before they start cooking. It usually comes with kachumbari, a chopped tomato, onion and chilli salad, with chips, ugali or rice available on the side.

Around Moshi, you can visit coffee farms in the Chagga villages on the slopes of Kilimanjaro. These are proper tours outside town, so allow at least half a day.

Vegetarians can get by on beans, rice, greens, chapati and vegetable stews. Ask about meat stock if you need the dish to be properly vegetarian.

Before a safari, ask what “meals included” actually means. Once inside the parks, you eat whatever the operator, lodge or campsite kitchen provides. If the pickup plan is vague, eat in town first and carry a few snacks that will survive the heat.

Dar es Salaam

In Dar, start with mishkaki: small skewers of marinated meat cooked over charcoal and eaten with chilli sauce. Bhajia are gram-flour fritters; samosas and chapati are also everywhere.

Fish is often priced by size or by piece. Point to the one you want and agree on the price before it reaches the grill. Have it with rice, beans or coconut sauce instead of paying hotel prices for imported seafood.

Kariakoo Market is crowded, chaotic and full of produce and snacks. Go because you like markets, not because you expect a relaxed food court.

Dar is also a useful food stop between long buses, flights and the Zanzibar ferry, with more Indian, Swahili and international choice than smaller towns. Around markets, choose busy places where the food turns over quickly.

Zanzibar and the Swahili coast

Spice market in Stone Town

On Zanzibar, pilau and biryani are different dishes, not two names for spiced rice. Pilau cooks everything into the same seasoned broth. Biryani combines rice with a separately cooked, more heavily spiced meat or fish mixture.

Also look for octopus curry and wali wa nazi, rice cooked with coconut milk. Darajani Market is useful during the day for produce, spices and snacks.

Urojo, or Zanzibar mix, is a thick, tangy soup loaded with potato, fritters, chutney, chilli and whatever else the seller adds. It looks chaotic and tastes far better than it photographs.

Zanzibar pizza has very little to do with pizza. It is thin dough folded around meat, egg, vegetables or a sweet filling, then fried on a hot plate.

For breakfast, look for vitumbua, small coconut rice cakes cooked in round moulds. Mandazi are pieces of fried dough served with tea. Get them fresh; old mandazi are just dry disappointment.

Forodhani Gardens is worth seeing, but it is not automatically the best place to eat. Check the seafood before ordering, ask the price and avoid anything that looks as though it has spent the evening waiting for you.

Kilwa and smaller coastal towns

Kilwa has fewer options, especially later in the day. Expect fish, rice, beans, chips, chapati and tea. Ask what was actually cooked instead of working your way through a menu of unavailable dishes. Your accommodation can usually point you towards somewhere open; independent restaurants may close early or run out of food.

Do not plan a tight food itinerary here. Eat when the road and boat schedule gives you the chance.

Coffee, juice and alcohol

Tanzania grows coffee around Kilimanjaro and in other highland areas. This does not mean every hotel serves good coffee. A farm tour around Moshi will teach you more than the instant coffee at breakfast.

Fresh passion fruit, mango and tamarind juice can be excellent. It can also be syrup diluted with water, so ask what you are getting if you care. Avocado juice is closer to a meal than a drink.

Bottled water remains the easiest option. On long travel days, favour hot food and busy places with rapid turnover.

On Zanzibar and other predominantly Muslim parts of the coast, alcohol is mostly sold in tourist hotels, bars and restaurants. If a local place does not advertise it, do not make things awkward by asking repeatedly.

The short version

  • Inland: try ugali with a good sauce, nyama choma, chipsi mayai and ndizi nyama.
  • In Dar: get mishkaki and grilled fish.
  • On Zanzibar: try urojo, pilau or biryani, vitumbua and a Zanzibar pizza.
  • Confirm the price before ordering meat or fish by weight.
  • Skip the hotel toast and find a fresh chapati, mandazi or vitumbua instead.

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